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If you think Lemberger sounds like something you’d pick up in a New York deli, you’re right if you’re talking about the liquor case. Lemberger is a red grape used to make wine in the state known more for Broadway shows and the Rockettes.

Seventy miles east of New York City are two wine trails: the North Fork and Hamptons. Since the first commercial vineyard was planted on Long Island in 1973, the number of wine producers on the peninsula has grown to 50; and while 30 percent of the acreage is planted in Merlot, Long Islanders have ventured beyond the quintessential Chardonnay to embrace lesser-known varietals such as Lemberger and Tocia Friulano.

Steven Bate, executive director of the Long Island Wine Association, says the area is garnering attention, including that of The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker), Wine Spectator, and Food & Wine, as well as British and Japanese magazines. “In 2000, we had about a half-million people that went through the tasting rooms,” Bate says. “By 2003, it was up to 940,000; and in 2006, 1.2 million people went through.”

The mid-state Finger Lakes region has a smaller, slightly younger wine industry. Celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2008, the Cayuga Wine Trail has grown from four wineries to 16. It, too, has piqued curiosity. The trail’s most popular event, spring’s Wine & Herb Festival, draws about 3,600 guests over two weekends. The region specializes in Riesling; Thirsty Owl Wine Co.’s 2006 Dry Riesling won the Governor’s Cup at the New York Wine & Food Classic in August at Copia in Napa Valley, Calif.